Day 1: London Fashion Week SS13 reviews

SS 13 -: ‘Set on Tropical Island, where there is an Embassy tea party on the lawn, the tropical setting as its backdrop.’

The show started with a red back light illuminating the cat walk like a rising sun the feeling of a tropical setting was immediate then out came a fusion of bright colours, floral print motifs, tropical fish print and patchwork dresses matched with long trailing neck scarves.
My favourite look was more tailored, high waisted black flare trousers juxtaposed against tucked under hot pant style shorts, her use of extremes of height made the collection accessible to a wider demographic. I also loved how she mix matched a draping side cut black flowing evening skirt with t-shirts knotted on the side; it gave a relaxed but formal look.

The overall style of the collection I feel has a relaxed, fun and modern approach for the seasoned traveller. The use of colour, motifs and accessories such as fish net bag bring a humour to her designs.

SS 13 -: ‘Has strong botanical influence, will feature my trademark sculptural shapes.’

The first hint to her botanical influence came with the music soft sounds of the rainforest could be heard, birds tweeting and water cascading down. The catwalk was illuminated by white light as the first model entered her shadow lit up casting white light onto the catwalk creating a glow behind and in front as she walked.
Sleeves were dramatic they came in sculptured shapes of full sleeve, puff ball cap sleeves, ¾ tailored sleeves and restrictive against the models bodies creating a distorted shape of the arm. The sculptured element of the garments was also seen in full body bubble skirts, oversized bow detailing around collar, layering tulip effect of dress over long train and use of tulle creating three dimensional shapes around the body. The body became distorted with concave shapes at back of dresses as well as dramatic shoulder lines.

The sculptured dramatic element of her designs was juxtaposed against the use of soft, ethereal colouring of creams, gold, white and sheer fabrics. The botanical influence was not the usual stereotypical fauna motifs but the feel and mood exhibited was one of contented relaxation with the environment.

SS13 –: ‘Inspiration came from Queen Victoria’s grand daughter, Marie who became the Queen of Romania in 1922 and the love she had for her botanical garden in Balchik.’

The models had a regal inspiration with tall head dress similar to crown structure the other inspiration that could be seen as a constant in models is the use of patterned tights the markings looked like vine leaves running up their legs, taking the botanical influence.
Collars was the main trend I saw in the collection there was embellished collars, lace, high collars, over sized asymmetrical collars and stand alone collars as statement jewellery pieces. Layering was another key trend and contrast of fabrics, sheer and lace. The sheer layering draped down and gave the garments a mystical quality of breezing along especially in the A line dresses which were layered over silk shift, the dress became alive and breezed offset against the body.

The colours used were mainly purple and blues but with the layering and use of different fabrics the colour palette varied as model walked against the light. Overall the collection had regal manner but one of haunted consequence it was as the models were portraying lost monarchs who could only retreat into their botanical dreams.

His collection had futuristic musical influence I thought. The beat of the track that played as models walked was echoed in the computerised graphic design print on his garments, the tie dye effect on the collection was sharp and had angular points it was as a beat on rock/trance soundtrack.

His collection had an angular approach the angles was asymmetric on the dresses reaching a triangular point at hem. Dresses were also cut into with use of different colouring they appeared to have contrasting sides, the fabric flapped and flayed over one another giving the dress three dimensional movement.
It had masculine feel there were low waist harem style trousers but they had impression of work man pants with heavy belt. The use of tailoring mixed with cut out details softened the masculine edge. I liked how his graphic print jump suits had none of the playfulness of the seventies but I feel he had re-invented in cool, hard edged manner by use of bold graphic print and sharp tailoring.

SS13-: ‘Harmony with disharmony creates illusions: expect the unexpected we are intrigued with contrasts.’

It kicked off with hard metallic guitar solo then the light went up to reveal girl on side of catwalk on top of box singing grunge/metal songs. That set off the feel off the collection, one for the young and cool.  Coloured leopard print dresses, skirt and crop top combos revealed slashes of skin be it by cut away dress revealing leg or top the mid riff. Tops were slashed at neck or high neck but all were cropped. The backs of dresses were low and V shaped, the contrast came with the front which was high neck.
My favourite look was sheer layered trousers over cropped shorts which went into high necked jump suit with the back revealed. The combination of different fabrics, length and skin exposure made the garment feel modern and not overly sexy but understated cool and fresh approach to the conventional jumpsuit, it was as three separate pieces in one.