SS13-: ‘I read ‘The old man and the sea’ by Hemmingway and I wanted to bring this idea to life. I used conversational prints as bias of collection, to echo the conversations that man has with sea and that women have with each other.’
The collection had a kooky and retro feel, it opened with sound of Frank Sinatra singing ‘Somewhere over the sea,’ and the sea reference was seen not just in colouring of blues but with navy style long blazer, octopus tentacles cascading down dresses and along sleeves as well as oversized Mac which had contrasting short sleeves that were constructed into side of Mac.
Dungaree style dresses, jumpsuits and skirts also appeared adding to the kooky feel with the contrast of paisley mixed with plaid and world map print. There was also an elegant red trouser dungaree ¾ in length and skirts with rouched paper bag waist line.I feel that the collections use of print and colour had a fun, light hearted approach to next SS.
SS13 -: ‘Marfa meets Savile row.’
The neon flower lights, bare footed models, green catwalk and subdued folk music gave the collection a boho seventies feel. Denim low waisted jeans and hot pants with peace motifs such as doves, heart and peace logo were printed on jeans in a collage mix match. Cut out detail print shift dresses and patchwork paisley print skirt added relaxed summer vibe to the collection.
It wasn’t just floral though stripes and glitter sequins sparkled down the catwalk. Multi coloured hexagon collage on vest dress captured the eye along with sparkling striped vest dress. The sparkly dresses were over embellished, bright and shining. The inspiration of Savile row was seen in the tailoring, wide leg trouser suits with sharply fitted blazer with wide lapels came in crisp white and black colouring.
I thought it was a standard presentation of SS13 it was referenced in the past instead of modern designs. Denim, sparkles and tailored suits nothing too inspirational in its presentation. The inspiration I felt through the collection was the dark canopy of the jungle, colours of green, khaki, flashes of red and yellow all against soundtrack of bongo drums and chanting. The collection was aggressive in style, sharp angles, high neck collars and metal zip up high jackets. Garments were slashed at the back and around the midriff exposing the skins in layers, the slashed fabric contrasting and moving against the body when in movement.
In contrast matching golden A line pleated skirt and high neck combos breathed the light in through the mass of dark colouring. Architectural folding of fabric to focal point at waist line on dresses gave the dresses a rigid structure. The use of two tone colouring on cigarette style trousers from dark to lighter matched with monochrome jackets giving a edgy but sophisticated look.
Volume and layering they are the two aspects I took from his collection. Full body taffeta dresses were layered over ankle grazer cigarette pants. The layering was architectural in design with different fabric such as sheer, taffeta and silk layered between and over one another combining the colouring. My favourite look was sheer polka dot jumpsuit over bralet and boy shorts but instead of dots was embroidered daisy’s it had fun, youthful look but still daring as sheer material.
SS13-: ‘Inspired by Garden of Eden, Noahs ark, vibrant underwater corals, passion and seduction.’
Print, colour and detailing are all bold, vibrant use and range of colours giving tropical glow to the collection. The neck is exposed as main feature with halter neck dresses, opulent gold collared jewellery and knots as base of neck exposing shoulders and neck line. Maxi dresses with cut out backs and wrap around tie detail around waist focus the eye to waist line. Parrot and fauna motifs on the dresses enliven the dress to a tropical setting, as well as eastern influence with kaftans layered over trousers.
The collection is bright, mix matched and loud to the eye.